At the very beginning of the first leg, as you head out from Kumagaya-shuku you will find the famous part where the old Nakasendō passes right through a modern department store. It was closed in the morning as I started… …more
The seventh leg continues in the tradition of yesterday, that is, it runs mostly along the National Route 164 with all that entails with little to no respite from the everpresent traffic. The eighth leg, from Kōnosu to Kumagaya, however… …more
These three legs, the fourth, the fifth and the sixth, from Urawa all the way to Ogekawa are all pretty similar, and truth be told pretty tedious. You will be hiking along the National Route 164 all the way, with… …more
This leg is short, only about 4.5 kilometres altogether, but compared with the first two (and the upcoming three) this is more like a hike through a quiet suburb rather than a modern cityscape. The fifth official milestone, the Tsuji… …more
The second leg of the Nakasendō from Itabashi-shuku to Warabi-shuku keeps following the National Route 17, albeit still with a lot of sidetracking along parallel streets. The path crosses three rivers, including the mighty Arakawa, and enters the Saitama prefecture,… …more
The first leg of the journey, between the starting point in central Tokyo, to the first shukuba, or post town in Itabashi is almost 11 kilometres long. The path follows the general direction of the National Route 17, even though… …more
To hike the whole distance of the old Nakasendō between Tokyo and Kyoto has been on my bucket list for over a decade. In 2015 I hiked between a handful of the more famous post stations of the path, from… …more